Mal Education - by Ruth Kellogg

As I've progressed in my canine education, I've found it interesting that some of the easiest to teach skills are in the Utility level ("Go Mark" as part of the directed Jumping and Directed Retrieve in the US.) and one of the more difficult skills to teach (Drop on Recall) is in the intermediate or Open level. By not following the "order of skills" as decreed by the AKC and CKC trials and teaching solid foundations for any number of skills, I have found myself teaching the foundations for Utility work even before Novice work! For example, Heel on or off lead is tough work for a young dog to learn well while going to a mark or going to fetch a toy is easy for a puppy! So with this in mind, I teach "Go Mark" (foundation for Utility) before this new skill "Come Mark" (foundation for Open).

Now why would I want to teach my dogs "Come Mark"? First, it is another skill that is easy to teach the dog and encourages the dog to think and listen to directions. Secondly, if the dog does any "acting work", then this skill is a necessity. Thirdly, it can provide a solid foundation for easily teaching the drop on recall in Open level obedience trials!

In "Come Mark", the dog is left on a stay and is commanded to come to a mark that is between the dog and handler. The dog is to stop and pause at the mark awaiting further direction.

This is a very easy skill to teach the dog after teaching "Go Mark". While it is easier for the dogs to do, I would suggest (and certainly teach my own dogs) to get a firm foundation in "Go Mark" before adding this skill. There are four reasons for teaching "mark work" in this order. The first is that the dog is going to be very eager to run to the mark - and it is easy for them to "overshoot" the mark or not pause/stop but continue directly to the handler. Then it is difficult to get a solid "stop/wait for direction" if the dog has learned to grab the treat on the way past while running to the handler! The second reason is that "come" is a very important command and the dogs should respond to it by going to the handler without question. Adding the "mark" into the command changes the command. The dog does need some maturity to be able to discern the difference between "come" and "come mark". A young puppy does not have that maturity. This is an easy skill to teach a dog with a solid mark and can be done at the same time or before the dog is ready for more advanced work on "Go Mark". The third reason is that the dog may not have, or may not be ready to have a solid stay. If "Go Mark" is taught to a 5 month old puppy, that 5 month old puppy should not be expected to do a 1 minute sit/stay. They are, bluntly, too young for that kind of self-discipline and stress in learning that is placed upon them. The fourth reason is that when a skill is taught, it must be taught at the appropriate time for the individual dog. If it is taught before the dog is ready (considering emotional, maturation, education levels), a solid foundation will not be built. The handler will then have difficulty in getting this skill taught and performed consistently.

(Basic rule: slow education = fast results.)

When our dog is no longer a puppy, has a solid stay, comes when called, and does a good "Go Mark", we can teach "Come Mark." The procedure is very simple.

Step 1 Leave the dog on a stay (eg. a sit/stay) and place the plastic lid you use for a mark about 6 feet away from the dog. Bait the mark. Remember to reinforce "Mark" with your hand. (This is a new skill so go to back to kindergarten in the beginning!) Step back from the mark about three feet. Command Come Mark (or just "Mark").. The dog should come to the mark and get the bait. Give the "Wait" command verbally and with a hand signal. Then go to the dog and praise thoroughly. Repeat at least two more times with the handler standing about 3 feet away.

Step 2 Increase the distance between the mark and the handler until the mark is equidistant from where the dog is left. Continue to end the exercise at the mark by going to the dog and praising.

Step 3 Now the dog is doing a solid "Come Mark" and "Wait". This is the time when you add extra commands. For instance, if you are aiming towards the Drop of Recall, command a "Down" verbally and/or with hand signal.(Remember in trials, only one command can be used, but in the teaching stages, both can be used. Some dogs respond better to one cue better than the other.) Go to the dog to praise and end the exercise at this point.

Step 4 The dog is doing a solid "Come Mark", "Wait," and one more command at the mark. Add another command at this point. You may want to command a sit from a down, a stand from a sit, or even a stand from a down. Go to the dog and praise and end the exercise at this point.

Step 5 At this point, the dog is waiting at the mark for one or more commands. He is starting to think and not just react. At this point, use the "Come" command to move the dog off the mark. Eg. Have the dog come to mark, wait, down, stand, then come. Praise the dog when he comes to you. Do not ask for a return to heel position - that is another command. Only work on one at a time. (If the return to heel is always used, the dog won't bother stopping to sit in front but will return to heel immediately.)

Step 6 If you are working towards the Drop on Recall or a snappier working dog, change the criteria by speeding up the commands at the mark. Still leave the mark in place to let the dog kn~,w where you want him to down (or whatever). Take this step slowly and if at any time there is a decrease in proficiency, then for goodness sakes, go back a couple of steps to where the dog was working solidly and reliably.

Step 7 In this step, decrease the size of the mark to where it becomes imaginary. One trick is to use a piece of bait where the mark was. At this point, you should be able to have a smooth Drop on Recall. (A tip would be to use the commands "Mark - Down -- Come".)

By using the new skill "Come Mark", the handler can teach the Drop on Recall easily to his dog without any stress or confusion. Even by just adding this simple skill, the handler and dog can enjoy a wide variety of "obedience games" together. Boredom is a huge cause of Malamutes not working well in obedience. Challenge their minds and they will absolutely blossom. Canine education then becomes FUN for both the handler and the Happy Dog!

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