EDUCATING A STAR
Ruth Kellogg
During our long conversations before and after the writing of “Malamutes are not Goldens,” my friend Daphne pointed out to me that “novice owners” and trainers could possibly benefit from more precise guidelines in educating their new pups. I spoke about not drilling exercises and providing a lot of variety in training sessions in the aforementioned article. Experienced trainers understand these concepts immediately; but what about the new Mal owner? She mentioned that such a guideline would have been extremely useful when she got her first Malamute. Fortunately over the twenty years since she got her first Mal and attended my first classes for my clients, I have increased my own knowledge and have educated more pups. My methods for educating my own pups has changed significantly since then with subsequent noticeable differences in the level of my dogs’ abilities at even younger ages than before. So, with lot of gratitude to Daphne, I shall suggest a program of Malamute education for anyone to follow.
Before deciding upon and then implementing an educational program for the new pup, there are some guidelines for the new trainer that must be understood and followed.
1. What will the owner and pup do in the future?
Let me be very clear, you must have a good idea of what you want to do with your dog in the future. Conformation showing? Obedience competitions of some kind? Agility? Harness work? Hiking? Tracking? Trick Training? Pet Therapy work? Anything? If you are not sure where your interests with your dog will take you – and more importantly what activity the pup will be most suited for or enjoy – then educate your pup from the beginning to be able to do any possible future activity. It doesn’t mean that you will participate in a particular activity, but the foundations for doing different activities will be laid. For instance, teaching the foundations of agility work can lead to just having fun in the woods with the dog walking along logs or jumping over logs on cue instead of going into agility trials.
2. What equipment will be needed?
I do not believe in using a lot of gimmicks when educating my dogs. They are lazy crutches at worst which the innately intelligent and independent thinking Malamute will not respond to in the same way as other breeds. For instance, the wires used for teaching the dog to go through the weave poles are not as successful as teaching the Malamute how to enter and move his body through the poles one pole at a time. The equipment I routinely use is a lead (to only keep the dog in my vicinity), a clicker, treats, and a target stick. My aim is to teach the Malamute what I want. To do that, I must reach the dog’s mind.
As the Malamute’s education progresses, I may add a small plastic disc or lid (for teaching going to a mark), cones (for Rally-O work), jumps, tunnel, weave poles, my agility cross-over, harnesses, and any of a bicycle, scooter, sled, and/or wagon for harness work. But, I’ll emphasize, the vast majority of my education is done with a clicker and target stick.
As a general rule, when my dogs are baby puppies, they wear a puppy collar. Once they are around 4 months of age, they are wearing a sled dog collar when they need a collar. I only use a slip/choke collar for conformation work when the dog is getting polished for the show ring. Before then, the dog/pup is taught what is expected with a sled dog collar on. When I’m starting to do formalized sessions for obedience (competitive or Rally), the Mal is outfitted with a buckle collar. By waiting until the dog is older and is getting either more formalized education or is being readied for their debut in the show or obedience ring and then introducing the collar they will be wearing during those competitive events, they are able to quickly understand the difference of activities and subsequent behaviors that will be expected when they wear the appropriate collar. Before then, the youngster is still learning basic foundation work which is served nicely by their wearing their “every day” sled dog collar.
But by far, the most important piece of “equipment” that I use is my mind connecting with the Malamute’s mind. Teaching the Malamute what is desired requires that the handler thinks, plans, evaluates, and adjusts the teachings as required by the individual dog. Every dog is an individual and while a handler may be used to teaching an exercise in one fashion – that may have worked beautifully for a few dogs – it may not work for every one. If the Alaskan Malamute is taught well, he will understand what is expected. Remember, this is a breed that is always asking “Why?” Teach well, and the question will be answered.
3. Foundation Building
My training plans are based upon establishing a solid foundation of basic behaviors. As the pup learns these foundations, then they are built up from there. As an example: before a pup can execute a correct “front” (sitting directly in front of the handler), the pup must know the sit command. I do not rush the training as taking time to teach the pup in such a way that he understands what is asked actually takes less time in the long run as the need for fixing “mistakes” is eliminated. Some pups understand new lessons very quickly; others take longer – there are no time restrictions on teaching properly.
4. Length of Training Sessions
Another rule for this program is that the training sessions are not long. Fifteen minutes can certainly be long enough if the lesson is creatively put together with a variety of activities that are changed quickly. This, too, will vary from dog to dog. Some dogs do everything well when asked. If only five or ten minutes are spent – great. End the session and do something else with the dog. Remember, Malamutes need lots of variety and really respond beautifully to fast paced lessons.
5. Confusion of the Malamute
If the dog is not “getting” the lesson, is tuning you out, displays boredom, and/or shows confusion (e.g. “talking” can be a sign with some Mals), then stop that particular task, do something easy and ideally fun that the dog knows and enjoys – and quit the session. Then, it is your job to think and re-think the session and figure out what you were or were not doing to cause the confusion. Think of another approach and try again the next day. It is the teacher’s responsibility to teach the lesson in a way that the student can understand.
6. Repetitions and “Drilling” exercises
“Drilling exercises” with Malamutes does NOT work. What this means is that a handler works over and over on one exercise (e.g. getting a straight front). Malamutes are not automatons and they will question “Why” and if the supposed answer they get from the trainer is “Because I say so”, the Mal will definitely turn off. This could be disastrous as the Malamute may lose any enjoyment or desire to learn anything else ever again. If a trainer is working on one aspect of an exercise (e.g. straight front), and it’s not perfect, then the thinking trainer understands that by not making a big deal of the poor fronts at that training session is not worth it. The exercise, in succeeding lessons will be slowly shaped to the desired position by rewarding slightly straighter fronts than previously offered. Yes, this takes time, but only asking for a straight front a few times (maximum six times/training sessions) will keep the exercise fresh and not bore the Mal to tears causing him to mentally turn off completely.
7. Working Attitudes of both Malamute and handler
The handler should keep the exercises fun! Working with a Mal is fun and it should be for both dog and handler. An enthusiastic dog who truly enjoys learning will actually learn faster and retain the lessons exceedingly well. It is rewarding for both when that happens. Don’t squelch the enthusiastic pup. If the pup is bouncy and extremely excited at the start of the session, do an exercise that’ll physically slow him down at first. This will settle his mind at the same time and enable him to focus, concentrate, and learn. Believe me, a youngster who clearly says “PICK ME!” when there is a possibility of training is what you want to aim for!
There are times when we don’t want to learn and/or aren’t feeling well physically, mentally, or emotionally. Our dogs are no different. Struggling to get a dog enthused about working when he clearly isn’t interested is a waste of time and energy. Even after a couple of minutes – literally – if you get the message that the dog isn’t interested, quit. If the dog has no physical problems and it is a mental reason that you are deducing why he isn’t interested in working, then put the dog in a run or even a crate for a while by himself. The idea behind this is to get the message to the dog that teaching sessions with you are a valued and special time. Do this once or twice and see if your dog’s attitude changes from “Oh darn” to “Yeah! We’re going to have some fun!”
8. Communication
I cannot stress enough the huge importance to learn about canine communication and then apply your own knowledge of it with observation of your own dog. As said in “Malamutes are not Goldens”, the non-verbal language of dogs is very rich. Malamutes are extremely communicative verbally and non-verbally. They communicate their emotions loudly if you tune in.
9. Variety in the Lessons
Alaskan Malamutes respond beautiful to variety and quick changes of activities. If the changes are done quickly and with the trainer’s attitude of fun, then the Mal views the changes as a wonderful game. When you are teaching a brand new activity (e.g. go to a mark), do maybe three of this exercise, then a “lighter” activity that the Mal loves (such as a few circles & spins), and then return to the new exercise for another three tries. This helps to keep the dog’s motivation and enjoyment high. In addition, the dog is rewarded for the previous activity’s work (which is more strenuous as he is learning something new) by doing something he really enjoys. This applies to all ages of Mals from baby pups on through to working with veterans.
It is quite possible to do three or more quick tasks within five minutes with the Malamute. They do not get confused and become quite enthusiastic to do such fun games. Malamutes are very spontaneous in their play; be creative and spontaneous in the training sessions and it will become a wonderful and fun “play” for both.
10. Ending the session
No matter how the training session went, it is imperative to end on a positive note with an activity that the dog knows well. If there is any frustration building in the training session for either the dog or person, do a quick positive activity (even just ask for a sit), then quit. It doesn’t matter how long you were working. Quit when you are ahead.
WHAT TO TEACH
As said earlier, when we get our pup we either have a good idea what we want to do with the pup in the future or if not, we can plan to educate the pup so that our options for doing anything is there. For the rest of this article, we will follow a new (and hypothetical) pup that I’ll call “Star.”
I’m not sure what Star’s future talents will be as an adult, so I’ll plan his education so he will have the foundations to do conformation work, competitive obedience, Rally obedience, harness work, draft work, agility, tricks, musical k9 freestyle, visiting as a therapy dog, and of course, be a well loved companion who has great house manners. Seems like a lot, doesn’t it? All of this is certainly possible and end up with a Malamute who is excited and willing to do anything that is asked with a wonderful happy attitude.
I use the principles of laying a strong foundation of basic behaviors and cross-training. I define cross-training as teaching behaviors (with their corresponding cues) that can be easily transferred from one activity to another. Now, let’s look at that ambitious list of activities to enjoy with Star and see what behaviors (or the foundations of behaviors) are needed for each one.
Companion & House manners: understanding of place in family/pack, house-trained (eliminate on command), walk on a lead, heel (on lead), come when called, bang, tummy side up, watch/focus, leave it, “off”, give/take, wait, sit/stay, down/stay, “go”, “All right/o.k.”, paw, give/take, standing still when stranger examines
Conformation: move freely on a loose lead, stand, stand/stay when a stranger approaches, move back/forward, watch/focus, “go” command
Competitive Obedience: heel (on and off lead), sit, down, stand, stand/stay when a stranger approaches, come when called, “front”, return to heel (swing or around finish), watch/focus, sit/stay, down/stay, down when moving, retrieve, jump, give/take, go out, moving stand
Rally Obedience: heel (on and off lead), sit, down, stand, stand/stay when a stranger approaches, come when called, “front”, return to heel (both swing and around finishes), watch/focus, sit/stay, down/stay, down when moving, moving stand, back, jump, tunnel, weave poles
Agility: watch/focus, “go”, jump, stay, wait, “easy”, right and left directions, “on-by,” tunnel, weave poles, see-saw, A-frame, dog walk, cross-over, pause table
Harness work: stand, “go”, stop, right and left directions, “easy”, “on by” stay, “paw”
Draft work: watch/focus, heel (off lead), stand/stay, stand, “go”, stop, right and left directions, “easy”, “on by” stay, “paw”
Tricks: watch/focus, forward/back, circle/spin, paw, bang, go/come to marks, crawl (and more….)
Musical K9 Freestyle: watch/focus, forward/back, circle/spin, paw, bang, go/come to marks, crawl, heel (on and off lead), wait, sit/stay, down/stay, stand, focus, weave (through legs), jump, crawl (and more…)
Pet Therapy: understanding of place in family/pack, house-trained (eliminate on command), walk on a lead, heel (on lead), come when called, bang/tummy side up, watch/focus, leave it, “off”, give/take, wait, sit/stay, down/stay, “go”, “All right/o.k.”, paw, give/take, forward/back, circle/spin, paw, bang, retrieve, and more tricks
If one really looks at the behaviors in the different areas and note how many similar ones are in seemingly different activities, the task of teaching the various activities is much less daunting.
LAYING THE FOUNDATION
The schedule that I’ll suggest for Star is actually what I do with all my pups now. Some are able to progress very quickly. Others may take a little longer at different steps. Again, I can’t stress enough that every dog is an individual. Even in a litter, there are definitive differences between siblings. What I’m suggesting is just that – suggestions. I have gone through my notes and recollections of how my dogs have progressed in their puppy education and this schedule is quite representative.
Eight to Twelve Weeks
Pups are usually joining their new packs at this time. While the temptation may be to “let the pup be a pup,” that actually is a mistake as it is far better to start the pup’s education as soon as he joins his new family. Before he joins the family, clear house rules must be thought through and agreed upon by all family members. These house rules will be what you want the adult dog to behave like…….so, teach the pup those particular rules from the beginning. For instance, if you do not want the dog to jump up on people, then don’t allow the baby puppy to do so. It’s not worth risking confusion and having to do remedial education by allowing the pup to do one behavior and then “suddenly” changing the rules on him. Any pup that joins my pack is under strict control and supervision. This actually aids in house training and gently and positively teaches the rules of acceptable behavior in my home. Pups must earn the privilege to have more freedom of movement etc. As they mature and show me their understanding of my expectations, they earn privileges.
During this time, the pup will be learning his name, walking on a leash, crate training, home routines, and house training. That in itself is a big lot of learning for the baby puppy. But, fortunately, the pup’s brain and central nervous system is fully developed and he can handle all of this – and more. The following are things that the pup will learn at this age.
1. Learning his name: I use the pup’s name a lot – especially when he’s getting special cuddles. Pairing it with food doesn’t hurt either! His name should be a wonderful thing – so use it with gentle and loving tones in your voice.
2. Learning negative sounds: I teach my clients and puppy class students to save the “no’s” and “bad” words for when it is really needed. That keeps the words more powerful. For corrections and/or minor infractions, I use negative sounds such as “Ah” or “Ow”. Doesn’t matter what the heritage of the pup is, they all understand those sounds.
3. Learning positive sounds: Conversely, the pup should also learn positive sounds. Again, don’t overuse the “good dog” words; “yes” can be substituted at times. Do have special words for when the pup is especially good (e.g. “Excellent!”) If a pup takes longer to respond to a command – and finally does it; don’t use “good dog” – use “thank-you” instead. If the pup had responded quickly – then it merits a “good dog”. By using “thank-you” it acknowledges positively that the pup did what was asked.
4. Walking on a leash: Put the leash on and use it. I do not like to have the pup drag a leash around as I can’t see the point of it. I want my pups to learn that when the leash is on, they are connected to me physically and hopefully mentally. Pups at this age won’t fight the leash much at all – but postpone your leash training, and you’ll have a big fight on your hands. If you are using the leash as part of the house-training routine (having the pup eliminate on a leash outside, tethering the pup to a solid object or yourself), this will just be part of the pup’s life.
5. Crate training: I feed my dogs in crates and the young ones sleep in their crates (in my bedroom). This is just part of the routine. I go into this in more depth in the article “Dog Crates and New Owners.”
6. Vocabulary: In addition to the pup’s name, positive and negative sounds, our hypothetical pup, Star, will also be learning inside/outside, dinner, cookies, cues for eliminations, and other words that I may use routinely. In the beginning, a pup will learn what we are trying to communicate by watching our non-verbal communication. If clear and consistent verbal cues are paired with activities (e.g. saying ‘outside’ before taking the pup outside to eliminate), then the pup will start to associate the funny sounds we make with activities. Just as a young child learns the words by hearing them over and over, the pup also learns this way.
7. Tummy-Side Up: This is an extremely important lesson for Star to learn. There will be many times throughout Star’s life when he will be held and/or restrained. He must learn to accept all parts of his body being held and handled by humans – even strangers such as veterinarians. He learns that being held and restrained is not to be feared – in fact, it can be quite pleasant! While being held, he is massaged all over (when he relaxes). Star also learns that his person is safe and trustworthy – a start on his person becoming a leader in his eyes. (Star’s owner must become a “Benevolent Leader.”)
8. Loading the clicker: As I train my dogs with clickers, I “load” the clicker early. If Star is a pup that I’ve bred, he’ll have heard the clicker sounding right before his dinner magically appears for the first couple of weeks. Then when our more “formal” lessons start, he already knows that the funny sound = treats. If Star is a pup that I’ve purchased, then by clicking the clicker (ideally when he’s looking at me) and then giving a treat immediately, Star will quickly get the idea that the funny sound = a treat.
9. Puppy Push Ups: This is a term that Ian Dunbar DVM uses to describe the exercises of sit/down/stand that he teaches with lure training. I also teach and use the luring method when doing this as it works so well for any pup. When Star’s head is up, his butt will hit the ground (a sit). From a sit, when the treat is moved along the ground, he’ll want to follow it and will slide into a down. Again, from a sit, if the treat is moved directly away from his nose parallel to the ground, he’ll stand. I use the clicker to mark his changing positions (in the beginning) and when he is following the lure well, the clicker will mark the end of the behavior – or completion of the sit, down, or stand. In the beginning, pups are following the lure (and his nose). There is no point in getting stressed about using the verbal cues until he follows the non-verbal cues easily. A big mistake I see novice handlers make is using the verbal cues too soon – and then they end up sounding like a machine gun (e.g. sit sit sit sit sit) trying to get their pup to follow the verbal cue when the pup has no idea what the heck they are meaning. Not only is this a waste of breath, it degrades the verbal cue right from the beginning. New handlers also have a lot of problem in giving a cue (non-verbal or verbal) and then waiting for the pup to process what the heck the cue means before doing it. I’ll add the cue words in after he is following his nose easily into the three different positions. I will give the verbal cue along with the non-verbal cue and then fade out the non-verbal cues as the pup shows me that he understands it. The clicker marks the behavior and reinforces to the pup that he made the right choice in his behavior.
10. Come when called: At this young age, Star is called and lured to people in a gentle manner. Having a lead on will certainly help bring him in closer. If I’ve bred Star, he’ll have learned “puppy puppy puppy” means come to me as well. If the pup is in a big yard and I don’t think he’ll come when I call; he’ll either not be called directly or kept on a long light rope so that I can reinforce the come. Teaching a pup to not come when called is too easy. I admit, that I’ve have done this with one of my girls. This party girl has given me many more grey hairs when, after escaping from the yard, she has run across and along our very busy road as logging trucks speed by. Even at eight years of age, if I’m not sure that Zhouma will come to me in the yard or I need her to go directly to her kennel run, she is on a lead.
11. Leave It: This is another life-saving command that must be taught. An 8 week old puppy can certainly learn this easily – particularly with the clicker. Refer to the article “Leave It” for how I teach it.
This is certainly quite a list for a baby pup to learn. But do keep in mind that the vast majority of the list will be happening during the entire day. A couple of “formal” sessions of doing puppy push-ups, come when called, and a leave it or two during a day will be enough for the baby. But keep in mind; these teaching sessions are only about 10 minutes in duration – if that. Tummy-side ups can happen at any time during the day – such as watching TV with the pup. They should be done a minimum of twice a day – more is certainly better.
Thirteen to Sixteen weeks
This is another very important time as socialization outside of the home area must really be intensified. You cannot over-socialize a pup. After the second vaccination, the pup should get to some well run puppy classes. Seeing other pups of varying sizes and shapes and different people is fabulous experience for the pup. If the classes are run by trainers who don’t understand northern dogs, I encourage my clients to take the article “Malamutes are not Goldens” with them to give to the teacher. Some puppy classes may focus on doing simple exercises over and over and over. That will bore the Mal pup – especially if he already knows them! We must be our dog’s advocate – and if we don’t think that doing something the instructor is asking the class to do is right for our dog, then don’t do it. For instance, when I take my pup to the classes, he is already far ahead of the other participants in their knowledge of behaviors. So, I’ll mix up the behaviors by throwing in some tricks that the pup knows or possibly having the pup move around me using the lure method.
So what can Star add to his knowledge at this age?
1. Focus/ Watch Me: If you don’t have the dog’s attention, he won’t listen or learn from you. I point to my eye and when the pup gives me any eye contact, I click and treat. The length of time that the pup will focus is slowly increased. If I have an enthusiastic “dinner-diving” pup, then he is taught to wait for the dinner bowl to be placed on the ground and then must give me direct eye contact before he gets his release cue – and his dinner.
2. Circles /Spins: These tricks are easily taught by the pup following his nose. This is an excellent warm up exercise that helps to limber the dog’s back and muscles. For more information on this, refer to my article “Circles.”
3. Paw: Malamutes are very paw-orientated. This is a handy command to have – not only for the trick value – but in more practical things such as grooming, harnessing, saying “no paw” when the dog is pawing inappropriately, and teaching “paws up” when getting the pup on the grooming table. Refer to my article “Paw” on how I teach this and what can be taught from this foundation.
4. Back: This is so useful in many different activities; look at the list of behaviors and see how many times it shows up! Pups learn this easily. Dogs are not generally aware of their back ends. The rear just provides their motor. Teaching a pup to be aware of his rear in this exercise is particularly useful in conformation showing (getting the “rear set up”) and in Rally-O with the many turns in either direction. Again, refer to my article “Back” for more information on how I teach this.
5. Bow: This is a delightful trick – but one that is also an excellent warm up/stretching exercise for dogs. It is much easier to teach this to a small pup than it is to a large dog which is why I teach it early. Pups understand what is wanted very quickly when they are young. How I teach “Bow” is also on my website.
6. Bang: Teaching a pup to lie on his side is very useful during grooming or other times when he must lie still. It’s also wonderful for cuddle times. Bang is the foundation for teaching the pup to roll over on command. Refer to my article “Bang” for how I teach this.
7. “Show Dog”: As Star will be shown and free-stacked when shown; I introduce the cue “show dog” so that he learns to stand directly in front of me in the manner that I want. By using the verbal cue “show dog,” it enables me to throw some conformation work in the middle of obedience or trick training without my pup becoming confused. When I’m at home, I do the majority of my dog training without using leads. While “show dog” is started in a formal lesson, I continue it as a daily basis when Star gets his cookies after meals, at bedtime, and other times treats are given out to the pack. With clicker training, the exact stance etc. is shaped. I recommend Karen Pryor’s book “Click to Win” about clicker training show dogs.
8. Target Stick: Having the pup touch a target stick with his nose is very easy. It is an excellent foundation for a whole list of behaviors that can be taught with it. It is a fun game for the pup and isn’t stressful at all – but very valuable. An application of teaching with the target stick is having the pup focus on the hand or even a finger. A non-verbal cue I use with my conformation dog is to have him focus on one finger – no matter where I’m standing – when he free-stacks. The target stick can also be used to help the pup look straight ahead when moving for conformation showing – this will eliminate faulty moving caused by the dog looking sideways to the handler.
As Star develops and shows me that he is ready for another new “game”, then I’ll add another skill from the above list. The early behaviors that Star learned are still worked with; there is just more variety now in the short lessons that we have twice a day.
During one of these lessons, I’ll really vary the “games”. For instance, I’ll ask for a “show dog”, then a down, then a sit, then some paw work……. There aren’t any major repetitions of any of the exercises. If Star does a lovely down quickly – then that’ll be it for that session.
Seventeen to Twenty-four Weeks
Star has been going to puppy class and I’ve been adding more behaviors during our class times to keep him interested. I’ve had him walking beside me, then I’ll back up and he’ll come back to me…. and then sit. The foundation for “front” is now laid! I’ve also had him moving into heel positions by following his nose (luring) and, of course, clicking and treating when he’s successful.
The “back” behavior is getting better and better with more steps going backwards while Star is standing in front of me. I may try a “back” with Star standing beside me in heel position.
With “Paw”, I’m now asking for specific paws with my cues (i.e. my right hand, his left paw). When Star understands, then I’ll ask for High Fives, High Tens, and “Waves” when he is doing the other paw behaviors well.
Star is also starting to understand “Wait” as a pause before an activity such as eating, getting out of his crate etc.
If Star didn’t need the teachings of giving and taking of toys or other items earlier, he’ll certainly get these lessons at this age. Again, this is an individual thing – some pups need to be taught this at eight weeks – others can wait.
The foundations of the basic behaviors and of general learning and education are now laid. At this point, I expect my pups to be ladies and gentlemen in their behavior in home and in public. Yes, they are still puppies, but well-mannered and educated puppies.
Six Months to Eighteen Months
My formal teaching sessions with Star will be less frequent. However, it must be understood that educating is truly 24/7. When his lessons occur, they will be kept short (as they are for all my dogs), varied, and fun. At this point in his development, I’ll add these activities and/or behaviors.
1. Solid Stays: The start of teaching this will begin. I don’t believe that pups should be pushed beyond their capabilities. If they can’t do more than a 10 second stay – then accept that and add to the length of time gradually. In this category, having the pup stay still – first in a sit and then in a stand position – will begun. Refer to my article on “Solid Stays” to see how I teach both the stays with and without a person approaching.
2. Position play: This is the foundation of heeling work. I work on fronts, swing finishes, around finishes before taking a single step forward in heel position, I really want the pup to understand what “heel”, “front”, and “around” mean. Refer to my articles: “Beginning in Rally-O” or “Foundations for Novice Rally-O” for more information on how I teach this.
3. Start of directions: Directions can be incorporated when going for a walk – as an example: when the trail turns to the right, give the command for turning to the right before turning and reinforce that. This can also be taught inside with the dog turning into a room. If you have access to an agility cross-over, it is very useful in teaching directions as the pups can be lured to the right or left as desired. Again, clickers help to mark the turns very cleanly. The cue “easy” can also be introduced during walks to slow the pup down.
4. Tunnels: If you have access to a tunnel, this can certainly be taught as a fun game. If no access to one, you can always improvise with what you have in your household.
5. Weave poles: I’ve had more success in teaching my Malamutes how to weave by clicking and treating them around each pole. I teach with two poles at a time and then add a pole as the dog progresses.
6. Go to Mark and Come to Mark: These can be taught as games which the pups do enjoy as there are lots of goodies involved! Refer to my articles on “Go Mark” and “Come Mark.” These are excellent foundations for the “go out” in Utility and “drop on recall” at the CDX level.
Eighteen to Twenty-Four Months:
At this age, the young Malamute is generally ready for more intensive lessons. Again, keep the principles listed at the beginning of this program in mind. They can often handle up to 30 minutes of training but only if it is filled with a lot of variety, is fast paced in changes of activities, and is positive and fun. They are getting more mature physically and can start more physical activities now without as much fear of straining young bones and muscles. Activities that can be worked on are as follows.
1. Heeling: Don’t rush this as I talk about in the Rally-O articles. Teaching a Malamute what heeling truly means may take a bit more time, but they will understand it and enjoy the fun with you instead of lagging and wishing they were on a different planet.
2. Stays: The young Malamute has more emotional control now and can really start to do stay exercises without being stressed. These are slow to mature dogs; it’s not worth pushing them and stressing them mentally when, by waiting a few more months, the Mal will be mentally and emotionally mature enough to handle the self-discipline that is required in the stay work.
3. Jumping: The young Malamute can start to do low repetitive jumping at 2 years of age. Remember, these are heavy dogs and a lot of repetitive jumping is hard on their shoulders when they land. Keep the jumps low when training – it’s the teaching of going over the jump that is the important thing, not the height. I particularly like the use of a jump chute as taught by Suzanne Clothier in her book “Agility Training Workbook.”
4. Harness work: The young Malamute is certainly ready for harness work now. If he’s able to join a team, then he can learn by example from more experienced dogs. The youngster will still have flashes of “puppy-brain” when in harness – eventually it will go as he matures!
Many of the suggestions of how to teach different behaviors are posted in the writing section of my website (www.inharmonymalamutes.com) Most of these articles have also been published in the Malamute Review in the past.
I do hope that this guideline may be helpful for Malamute owners. We all love our Mals –that’s easy to do. If we educate our pups with a program built on solid foundations of learning, our companions can truly become accomplished stars in many different activities. A well-behaved and educated Alaskan Malamute is a joy to have and enjoy many activities with and be a magnificent ambassador for our breed. May we all have happy educated and accomplished dogs!
From the March / April 2009 issue of the Malamute Review